A History of Georgian Wine

By Dr. Kenneth Friedman

Sitting at the crucial crossroads between Eastern Europe and Western Asia and the vast cultural worlds separating them, Georgia has seen many centuries of war, upheaval, and turbulence, while maintaining one constant—winemaking. Some archaeologists credit Georgia with the origin of winemaking, dating back thousands of years, with much of the history and particular customs remaining until this day. While Georgian winemaking is ancient, after centuries of strife, Georgia is again making its mark on the international wine map.

Georgian Wines on the Rise

While wine consumption around the world decreased in 2024, down 6% from the previous year, and some experts believe there is an existential threat to the industry, the past year conversely brought a milestone for Georgian wine exports. The National Wine Agency of Georgia reported that exports increased 6% in 2024, with the important United States market seeing a 32% increase. A total of 1.2 million liters is imported into the U.S., which is still a relatively low number when compared to the French market leader, at over 36 million liters, but notable nonetheless in a tough environment. In just the past 20 years, the number of winemakers in Georgia has increased fortyfold!

Jewish History of Georgia

Today Georgia is home to only about 1,500 Jews, with many having relocated to Israel in recent decades. But Jewish history in Georgia is centuries long and robust, dating back to at least the sixth century BCE and Nebuchadnezzar’s conquest of Jerusalem. Jews followed the trajectory and timeline of Georgia across the centuries, rising and falling with each successive conquering ruler and rebellion, all while maintaining their ancient customs and mostly living lives of poverty and

persecution.

Georgia declared its independence from Russia in 1918 following the Bolshevik Revolution, but just three years later saw the Russian Red Army capture Tbilisi, the eastern capital of Georgia and longtime Jewish home where the First Congress of Caucasus Zionists took place in 1901. Soviet rule devastated Jewish life further and fostered blood libels against Georgian Jews and the prohibition of Jewish religious life. Soviet rule ended with the fall of the Berlin wall and the pronouncement of independence in 1991. Many more Jews would emigrate to Israel, and today most Jewish life in Georgia remains in Tbilisi. Today, Shimon & Co. constitutes the only kosher winery in Georgia, representing the best of what Georgian wine has to offer.

Qvevri

Qvevri: Georgian wine vessles

For many generations, Georgians have been making their wines in egg-shaped clay vessels called qvevri. Qvevri are made by hand from the local earth and can hold between 50 and 4.000 liters. Like grapes identified by appellation, qvevri are distinct by location, as well, and are used for both fermentation and aging of the wines. While only approximately 5%-10% of wines produced in Georgia are made in qvevri, the tradition is time-honored and has influenced winemaking around the world. Clay vessels allow for important interaction with natural properties, and provide oxygen exchange, controlled acidity and heat insulation. These vessels are important around the world, including in Spain, where they are called tinajas, or in Italy, where they are known as amphorae. Today many Israeli winemakers are using clay amphorae to produce wines in this method, without the heavier influence of oak but allowing for the earthy character absent when using stainless steel. Just a few years ago, a 1,500-year-old winemaking complex was unearthed in Yavne, Israel, which included many kilns for creating the clay amphorae.

In this method of winemaking, the crush occurs—skins, stems and all— inside the qvevri, before undergoing fermentation and being placed underground for about six months of aging. Little goes to waste in Georgia, with the wine must (the seeds and skins from the fermentation) distilled into a nationally beloved spirit called chacha, which is smooth despite its deceivingly strong alcohol content of up to 85%. Chacha will soon be introduced to the kosher market by BAM Wine & Spirits.

Indigenous Grapes of Georgia

Georgian vineyard

Home to at least 500 indigenous grapes, Georgia boasts a dizzying array of unique grape varieties, which comprise about one sixth of all varieties known to the world. Georgia is a small country bordering the Black Sea and the Caucasus Mountains, and is only about the size of Connecticut. To put that into perspective, Russia is about 25,000% larger than Georgia. Some grapes are quite rare and equally tough to pronounce, such as Kaikatsishvili, Chitiskvertskha or the tongue twister, Maghlari Mskhvilmartsvala, and while many Georgian varieties are not worthy of being made into wine, several have gained international recognition for their distinct profiles. Rkatsiteli, a white variety, and Saperavi, a red, are both produced in large quantities due to their natural affinity with the region’s cold weather and more so for their intrinsic drinkability.

Georgian winemaker at work

Saperavi, which means “to dye,” is an uncommon, red-fleshed grape, or teinturier, one of only a handful made into wine internationally. Saperaviproduces a deep, dark wine with a characteristic nose of ripe black fruit and maintains high acidity and good tannic structure. Saperavi vines are hardy in cold weather, making them perfect for Georgia’s relatively cold winters.

Tsolikouri is a white variety which benefits from Georgia’s plentiful daytime sunshine, allowing the grape to ripen with higher sugar levels. Tsolikouri is a versatile grape and can create a wide variety of wines from dry to semi-sweet to dessert wines. When made in the Imereti style, about 5%-20% of the pomace is added again during fermentation, producing a golden colored wine.

Georgia’s Naturally Semi-Sweet Wines

It is important to understand the difference between the naturally semisweet wines Georgia has made so popular versus the mass market, addedsugar sweetened wines. Georgian semi-sweet wines are incredibly versatile with a balance between sweetness and acidity. The residual sugar in these wines comes from the fermentation process, in which the winemaker halts the process, leaving behind unfermented grape sugars to augment the natural high acidity and tannins, which also allows for lower alcohol in the finished wine. Georgia’s Khvanchkara and Kindzmarauli wines are examples of such wines that are naturally sweet, approachable for the novice but complex and balanced for the sophisticated palate.

GRW Khvanchkara, Semi-Sweet, 2024

Soon to be released, the Khvanchkarais known as the “pearl of Georgian wines,” crafted from hand-picked 50% Aleksandrouli and 50% Mujuretuli, indigenous Georgian grapes from the very small, mountainous western Georgian Racha region. Khvanchkara covers an area of just 903 hectares, or just about 3.5 square miles, similar in size and approach to Sauternes, with equally limited production. Racha’s distinct climate allows for achieving this special wine’s natural high-sugar content, the only of its kind in the world. In the glass, the Khvanchkara shows deep, dark ruby, and on the nose, cherry, ripe berries and pomegranate, a velvety, full-bodied palate with a rounded mouthfeel, with good balance and complexity, and enjoyable long finish. Best served slightly chilled, 60°-64° F. $25. Drink now. 11% ABV. 

Shimon & Co., Tsolikouri, 2022

From the Mosaic Collection, the Tsolikouri features a label adorned with a mosaic from the sixth century Maon Synagogue in Israel’s Western Negev Desert, very close to Kibbutz Nir Or. The only kosher offering of this variety in the world, the Tsolikouri is bursting with minerality, yellow citrus, Granny Smith apples, honey, and stone. Minimal intervention allows this crisp white to display its natural, delicate beauty. $20. Drink now. 11% ABV.

Shimon & Co., Mukuzani, 2021

Another offering from the Mosaic Collection, the Mukuzani is produced from premier quality Saperavi grown in the Mukuzani, Kakheti appellation. The grapes are hand harvested and aged in oak for a year. The resulting wines are deep, dark and inky. The 2021 Mukuzani is full-bodied with notes of dark cherry, blackberry, plum, earth, dark chocolateand spice. It will pair with steak, lamb or goat cheese. $25. Drink now until 2030. 13.5% ABV.