Approaching Kosher Burgundy

By Yossie Horwitz

Budding kosher wine connoisseurs don’t know how good they have it. As wine appreciation grows among mainstream kosher consumers, the market is now brimming with high-quality kosher versions of popular wines from around the world. Innovation shows no signs of slowing, with winemakers refining their craft and expanding their offerings to include varietals like malbec, touriga nacional, mourvèdre, grenache blanc and roussanne. We are truly in a golden age of kosher wine, with an ever-growing selection for adventurous drinkers eager to expand their palates.

Growing up in Israel and learning about wine, I had a front-row seat to this evolution, particularly during the country’s so-called “Second Wine Revolution” of the early 1990s. Yet, for all the progress in winemaking, one of the most elusive achievements remained out of reach—until now. The kosher market is finally embracing the purest expression of one of the most challenging grapes to perfect: pinot noir. Known for its fickle nature, pinot noir is often called the most “transparent” grape, vividly reflecting the terroir in which it is grown. While regions like Oregon, Washington state and Sonoma have had success with pinot noir, most wine aficionados agree that Burgundy’s true—and perhaps only—home is Burgundy.

Burgundy is synonymous with pinot noir (for reds) and chardonnay (for whites). Unlike New World winemaking regions (e.g., the U.S., South America, Israel), which label wines by grape variety, Old World regions like France classify their wines by geography (e.g., Bordeaux, Rioja, Chianti). With centuries of refined winemaking traditions, Old World producers remain deeply committed to a terroir-driven approach, though climate change is forcing adaptation. Meanwhile, New World winemakers, unburdened by generations of rigid tradition, freely experiment with grape varietals and techniques, pushing the boundaries of what’s possible.

Despite a growing appreciation for Burgundy’s subtlety, finesse and complexity, kosher drinkers had to wait for truly great kosher Burgundies to become consistently available. While occasional high-quality options emerged over the years, it was only recently that kosher consumers gained regular access to world-class Burgundies. But before diving into the domaines producing these wines, it’s important to understand why Burgundy—and its expression of pinot noir—is so special.

The Burgundy Mystique

As I delved into the world of wine, I repeatedly encountered near-reverential descriptions of pinot noir—blending passion, desire and devotion with equal parts frustration. André Tchelistcheff, one of the most influential winemakers of the 20th century, famously declared: “God made cabernet sauvignon, whereas the devil made pinot noir.” This sentiment captures the grape’s notorious difficulty—it is temperamental, thin-skinned, and highly sensitive to environmental conditions.

If Bordeaux is about power and polish, Burgundy is about purity and place. No region is more obsessed with terroir—the elusive concept of how soil, climate and geography shape a wine’s character. Even two adjacent vineyard plots can produce vastly different wines, making Burgundy a mosaic of microterroirs, each telling its own story. The best Burgundies are hauntingly beautiful, defined by their silky texture, layered aromatics, and precise sense of place.

Burgundy’s white wines, primarily chardonnay, are equally compelling. Unlike the over-oaked, buttery styles that once dominated the market, Burgundy’s whites emphasize tension, minerality and depth. Some Burgundy regions showcase chardonnay at its most refined and vibrant, balancing richness with precise, razor-sharp acidity.

Burgundy’s Regions and Classifications

Unlike Bordeaux’s vast appellations, Burgundy is a mosaic of meticulously classified vineyards. Within the broader Burgundy appellation, numerous regions and subregions extend down to individual villages and plots. The region stretches from Chablis in the north to Mâcon in the south, with the revered Côte d’Or—home to Burgundy’s prestigious grand cru and premier cru wines—at its heart. The primary subregions include:

• Chablis—Known for its pure, mineral-driven chardonnay, often unoaked and bracingly fresh, with vibrant acidity and distinct mineral notes. If you love high-acid whites with hints of crushed seashells and green apples, look no further.

  
  

• Côte de Nuits—The pinnacle of pinot noir production and home to Burgundy’s most celebrated villages, including Gevrey-Chambertin and Vosne-Romanée. This subregion produces some of the world’s most sought-after wines—La Tâche and Romanée-Conti—prized for their age-worthiness, structure and elegance.

  
  

• Côte de Beaune—While Chablis offers a distinct chardonnay style, the Côte de Beaune produces some of the world’s most acclaimed whites. Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet exemplify chardonnay’s elegance when balanced with oak. The subregion also offers exceptional pinot noir, often more affordable than those from the Côte de Nuits, with Pommard and Volnay among the best-value options.

  
  

• Côte Chalonnaise—A lesser known but rewarding subregion offering excellent value and hidden gems, including wines from Mercurey, a village with increasing kosher options. Think of these as “gateway Burgundy” wines—approachable when young yet delivering the region’s signature magic at a lower price point.

  
  

• Mâconnais—Ideal for those who enjoy fruit-forward chardonnay but seek a more refined expression. Home to approachable wines like Pouilly-Fuissé, it’s a great entry point for white Burgundy at slightly lower prices. While some pinot noir is grown here (with no notable kosher options yet), the region is best known for its whites and well-regarded gamay, the primary grape of neighboring Beaujolais.

Ranking the Place, Not the Owner

Unlike Bordeaux, which ranks estates by growth classifications (first growth, second growth, etc.), Burgundy classifies its vineyards. While the kosher market currently offers only a few top-tier options, understanding this hierarchy is essential. If history is any guide, more high-level expressions will emerge—along with rising prices. Burgundy wines are ranked as follows:

• Grand Cru—The pinnacle of Burgundy, with only about 2% of vineyards earning this designation. These wines, from legendary sites like Romanée-Conti, Montrachet and Chambertin, can age for decades. If Burgundy were a symphony, these wines would be the crescendo. Only two kosher grand crus exist: a 2004 Clos-Vougeot from Château de la Tour and a 2022 release from Philippe le Hardi, priced around $500.

  
  

• Premier Cru—One step below grand cru but still among the finest pinot noir expressions. From top village vineyards, these wines offer elegance, depth, and aging potential—without the astronomical price tag, though they’re hardly bargains.

  
  

• Village Wines—Made from vineyards within specific villages (e.g., Meursault, Gevrey-Chambertin), these wines capture the region’s signature character. While less intense than higher-ranked wines, they offer strong value. Several kosher options allow drinkers to explore Burgundy’s nuanced terroirs.

  
  

• Bourgogne—Burgundy’s entry level wines, sourced from multiple vineyards or subregions. Though quality varies, strict classification helps maintain a higher baseline than Bordeaux’s equivalent. A well-made Bourgogne pinot noir or chardonnay provides a solid introduction—but kosher consumers should choose wisely.

The Kosher Burgundy Evolution

After the first kosher grand cru release in 2004, it took years for high-quality kosher Burgundies to become consistently available. Early successes from producers like Domaine D’Ardhuy and Domaine Chantal Lescure yielded some standout wines but lacked consistency and regional diversity. Neither estate produces kosher wines today, but in recent years, new producers have entered the market, providing a steady supply across multiple subregions and price points. This has finally allowed kosher wine enthusiasts to explore Burgundy’s full beauty and prestige.

Among the key players in this evolution are two small négociant-turned-winemakers, Jean-Luc et Paul Aegerter and Jean-Philippe Marchand, along with two of Burgundy’s more esteemed producers, Philippe le Hardi and Domaine de Montille, now crafting top-tier kosher wines. 

Marchand and Aegerter entered the U.S. kosher market through artisanal importers, with San Diego based Liquid Kosher introducing Marchand’s wines and New York based M&M Importers bringing in Aegerter’s wines. The impact of these two producers has been profound, ensuring more consistent production across vintages while offering comparable wines from multiple regions and subregions. As a result, kosher consumers now have an unprecedented opportunity to explore Burgundy’s depth and diversity like never before.

Jean-Philippe Marchand

Jean-Philippe Marchand

The Marchand family’s winemaking heritage dates back to 1813, when Pierre Marchand, a vigneron from the Hautes Côtes de Nuits, married into a Morey-Saint- Denis wine family. This union laid the foundation for one of the Côte de Nuits’ most respected multigenerational estates. Over the years, the family has built a reputation for crafting elegant, terroir-driven wines from holdings in some of Burgundy’s most iconic appellations. Today, Jean-Philippe Marchand continues this legacy at the family’s 18th-century winery in Gevrey-Chambertin, an estate his father, Claude, acquired in 1983. With an ever-growing selection of kosher wines, Domaine Jean-Philippe Marchand extends well beyond top-tier Gevrey-Chambertin, encompassing plots in Chambolle-Musigny, Morey-Saint-Denis and beyond.

Like most Burgundian winemakers, Marchand follows a low-intervention philosophy, allowing the terroir to shine while ensuring balance and longevity. Wines mature in oak barrels for about 18 months, employing traditional techniques such as le ouillage (“topping up” barrels to prevent oxidation) and le soutirage (“racking” to remove sediment for clarity). Whites are fined with clay, while reds undergo soil filtration for brilliance. The proportion of new oak varies: 50% for grand crus, one-year-old barrels for premiers crus, and two- to three-year old barrels for Village appellations. Bottling takes place in the estate’s cellars each March or April.

Though structured and cellar-worthy, these wines stand apart from old-school Burgundy in their freshness and early drinkability. Marchand has fine-tuned his approach to offer both immediate appeal and long-term aging potential.

Marchand barrels

Jean-Luc et Paul Aegerter

Jean-Luc Aegerter

If Burgundy had a category for rule-breakers who still respect the rules, Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter would be at the top. This father-and-son duo has injected fresh, entrepreneurial energy into a region that isn’t exactly known for embracing change. By blending tradition with modernity, they’ve carved out a unique niche, producing wines that are both terroir-driven and accessible—a rarer combination in Burgundy than one might think.

Jean-Luc’s journey began in 1988 when, without a wine-making background, he went all in on Burgundy, purchasing Maison Pierre Grüber, a small négociant house in Nuits-Saint-Georges. His first vineyard acquisition in 1994 marked his transition from négociant to winemaker. When Paul joined in 2001, the business took off. Today, Domaine Aegerter spans 14 hectares across Burgundy, from village-level wines to coveted grand crus like Bonnes-Mares, Clos de Vougeot, and Corton-Charlemagne.

While many Burgundy houses cling to tradition, Aegerter seamlessly merges classic techniques with modern innovation. Temperature controlled fermentation preserves freshness, low-intervention vinification allows the terroir to shine, and oak aging—limited to 30% new barrels—balances texture and purity. Their pinot noirs are vibrant and fruit-driven, with fine tannins and an emphasis on elegance over power. Their chardonnays, particularly from Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault, feature crisp acidity and layered minerality, with restrained oak, letting the fruit take center stage.

Though Marchand and the Aegerters paved the way for exceptional kosher Burgundies, two newcomers are pushing the category even further. Domaine de Montille and the recently released premier cru from Philippe le Hardi are setting the bar and offering some of the finest kosher Burgundies available today.

Domaine de Montille

Étienne de Montille

Few names in Burgundy carry as much history as Domaine de Montille. Based in Volnay, this storied estate has crafted wines since the mid-18th century, but its modern legacy began in 1947 when Hubert de Montille took the reins. Known for his strong opinions and uncompromising commitment to age-worthy, structured wines, Hubert defied trends, favoring terroir over flashy winemaking. While others chased overt fruit and new oak, he championed low yields, whole-cluster fermentation, and minimal extraction. His wines weren’t built for early appeal, but given time, they evolved into some of Burgundy’s most hauntingly beautiful expressions of pinot noir.

That philosophy continues under his son, Étienne de Montille, who took over in the mid-1990s. He has refined the estate’s approach, adding a touch more early accessibility while preserving its integrity. The wines still reward patience, but now offer a delicate balance of structure and elegance—something few producers manage as deftly.

With 35 hectares across the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits, de Montille’s holdings are a Burgundy lover’s dream. From the ethereal reds of Volnay and Pommard to the powerhouses of Vosne-Romanée Malconsorts and Clos de Vougeot, each bottle tells the story of its terroir, not its winemaker. While a kosher version has yet to be produced, we eagerly anticipate the possibility of Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts—a site bordering La Tâche—and the microcuvée Cuvée Christiane, sourced from a tiny plot some argue could have been classified as La Tâche itself. On the white side, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru and Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Le Cailleret showcase the estate’s mastery across the spectrum of Burgundy winemaking, including select kosher cuvées so stunning they could bring one to tears.

A defining trait of Domaine de Montille is its use of whole-cluster fermentation, enhancing aromatics, structure, and aging potential. Depending on the vineyard and vintage, whole-cluster inclusion ranges from 50% to nearly 100%, lending a distinctive spicy, floral, and savory character. Oak is used judiciously—rarely exceeding 25% new barrels, even for grand crus—ensuring that terroir, not wood, remains the star.

Domaine du Château Philippe le Hardi

Formerly known as Château de Santenay, this historic estate isn’t just about wine—it embodies centuries of Burgundian history, from its storied vines and cellars to its signature glazed tile rooftops. Yet, despite its grandeur, there’s nothing stuffy about this Domaine; its wines are elegant, expressive, and deeply rooted in their terroir. Records from 1796 document two wine presses within the château, highlighting its longstanding winemaking tradition. Over the centuries, the estate passed through noble hands, with the Pidault family (1965–1976) spearheading renovations and vineyard expansions, particularly in Mercurey, restoring its prominence in Burgundy’s wine scene.

The estate takes its name from Philippe le Hardi (Philip the Bold), the 14th century Duke of Burgundy who famously banned gamay in 1395, cementing pinot noir as the region’s cornerstone grape. Today, Château Philippe le Hardi spans 98 hectares, making it one of Burgundy’s largest Domaine-driven producers. Its soils range from classic limestone-clay in the Côte d’Or to iron-rich red clays in the Côte Chalonnaise, yielding pinot noirs with distinct expressions—structured yet approachable reds from Santenay and Mercurey, while Corton grand cru bottlings are built for longevity. Its chardonnays, particularly from Puligny-Montrachet, balance crisp minerality with elegant weight, thanks to a restrained use of oak.

Winemaker Jean-Philippe Archambaud focuses on terroir-driven expression, minimizing new oak for whites to preserve freshness, while gentle extraction keeps reds vibrant and food-friendly. While the estate produces wines from some of Burgundy’s most renowned appellations, its Mercurey and Santenay vineyards deliver some of the most exciting bottlings—including exceptional kosher options. The old-vine Mercurey, available in both red and white, overdelivers with dark cherry, earthy spice, and Côte Chalonnaise vibrancy—perfect for early drinking yet structured enough to age.

Final Thoughts

The evolution of kosher Burgundy has been nothing short of remarkable. What was once an elusive dream—finding truly world-class kosher Burgundies—has now become a reality, thanks to small but talented producers like Jean-Philippe Marchand and Jean-Luc et Paul Aegerter, as well as top-tier estates like Domaine de Montille and Philippe le Hardi. With a growing commitment from top Burgundy estates, kosher consumers can now experience the depth, elegance and complexity that have long made Burgundy one of the world’s most revered wine regions. If the current trend continues, we may only be at the beginning of an exciting new era for kosher Burgundy lovers.